Singing, Laughing & Hanging On: A Travel Tale About My Eye-Opening First Foreign Adventure In Honduras

by Lindsay Shapka in , ,


The sky was streaked with pink and a gentle breeze — causing the tall, golden sugar cane to sway lazily from side to side — had replaced the heavy, relentless heat of the day. I carefully shifted my position, trying to get comfortable without falling out of the bed of the blue, battered truck I was wedged in that was driving at breakneck speed down the potholed filled road.

There were 22 of us crammed into the back of the truck, covered in dust and tired from clearing land and digging the foundation for a community center in the small village of Ojo de Agua, Honduras. There was no electricity in the town to run power tools (not that we had any) so all of our work had to be done the old fashioned way. After a full day of chopping down thick weeds with a machete and swinging a pickaxe at the dry, hard earth, I could barely lift my arms. I was looking forward to crawling under the safety of my mosquito net and passing out.

The Honduran girls, clinging to the edge of the truck beside me, had broken out in song the moment we lost sight of the town, the bad voices and the good, blending together in a free and careless harmony of a well-known melody.

Though it was my first visit to a country where I did not speak the language, I was surprised to find that I wasn’t having too much trouble communicating. Because I didn’t know a word of Spanish, I was forced to really pay attention and silent interactions suddenly conveyed more meaning to me than spoken words ever had. I felt that I understood my new friends more deeply through watching their subtle movements and looking into their eyes than I ever could have through their spoken language.

After a few verses of the song had gone by, Yolani, a vibrant girl about my age, turned from the group, grabbed my hand, looked me square in the eye, slowly sang a few foreign words and motioned for me to repeat after her. Self-conscious, I half talked, half-whispered the unfamiliar words back to her while she patiently nodded along, smiling and squeezing my hand when I managed to pronounce one close to correctly. She started to sing louder and faster, so I followed suit until my voice was just as loud, and blending in with hers. The other girls smiled at me as the words tumbled out of my mouth and were carried away by the wind.

*     *     *

Three days earlier, stuck in layover limbo in Texas, my friends and I were passing the time by discussing our individual expectations and goals for our volunteer adventure. We called ourselves the ‘youth in action’ and were a group of eight young adults traveling to Honduras to bring supplies to those still affected by Hurricane Mitch, and to help rebuild a community center.

Prior to this trip I had never traveled outside of North America and the only image I had of the developing world was what I had seen in infomercials — sad, destitute children, their bellies swollen or ribs protruding, and eyes full of tears that stared vacantly at the camera while an emotional Sarah McLachlan song played softly in the background. The children always looked lost and alone, waiting for someone to swoop in and save them. These images had motivated me to spend most of my free time fundraising for the trip, and that night in Texas, all I could think of was the flocks of poor, unloved children in Honduras who would finally feel hope when I, a representative of the developed world, showed them that I cared.

When it was my turn to share my expectations of our adventure, thinking only of the infomercial children, I told my friends that if nothing else — my goal was to make at least one child smile.

I was such an idiot.

Roger, our contact in Honduras, met us at the airport in Tegucigalpa, which was packed with people holding signs and chanting “Hon-DUR-as!!” at the top of their lungs. It turned out that we were on the same flight as the country’s national soccer team returning home from an international tournament.

Despite the chaos and commotion we moved quickly through the airport and after collecting our bags Roger led us outside to a couple of rusted, beat-up Ford trucks. I hopped into the back of the blue Ford with its paint peeling off, fender bent and windows cracked. I was surprised to see a faded “I LOVE TEXAS” sticker stuck to the bumper. Roger explained that many of the vehicles in the country were cast-offs from the United States.  

After a sweaty two hours of driving, we turned off the rough dirt road onto an even rougher dirt road that led into Correl Quemado, our home for the week. Small one room shacks with rusted, corrugated roofs lined the road, and half-naked children splashed each other in the brown river that’s water was used to wash, cook, and drink. We pulled up in front of the sturdiest looking building in sight and were told we had an hour to unpack and freshen up.

The girls, clinging to the edge of the truck beside me, had broken out in song the moment we lost sight of the town, the bad voices and the good, blending together in a free and careless harmony of a well-known melody.

Too excited to stay inside, after throwing my bag on a bunk, I emerged from the dark stone building and almost ran directly into a small group of curious children that had gathered just outside the door.

I couldn’t believe that the infomercial children I had been picturing for years were finally in front of me!

Except... they didn’t look anything like the infomercial children.

The children in front of me were fully clothed, their stomachs were definitely not bloated from hunger and there were no flies circling overhead. In fact, they all had rosy cheeks and looked happy and healthy, not sad and hopeless. I was suddenly painfully conscious of my own appearance, realizing that after a full day of travel I was probably more disheveled than they were.

Looking into their curious faces, it hit me that I was not a ‘bearer of hope’ to these little people — I was simply a curiosity, a visitor, a potential new friend.

I had foolishly been equating poverty with a lack of self, power, humanity, and hope, and in my ignorance I had believed that my presence would somehow affect their very existence.  

Feeling silly and a bit ashamed of the misconceptions I had been led to believe, I found myself unsure of how to interact. The kids and I stared at each other shyly for a few minutes until the smallest of the bunch, a little girl wearing a powder pink tank top, walked over to my side, looked up at me with big brown friendly eyes, slipped her hand into mine and smiled.  

*     *     *

I tilted my head towards the growing darkness to take better advantage of the breeze, that was turning into a wind as our driver continued to gain speed. He must have been able to smell the dinner of grilled plantains and fresh tortillas waiting for us at the bunkhouse.

The wind felt amazing on my sun-scorched face and it sent my hair swirling around my head. But, I didn’t care how I looked and none of my new friends did either — we were too busy singing, laughing, and hanging on.
 

The story of my first international adventure

AUTHOR'S NOTE: This is the story of my first trip outside of North America, and the first time I went somewhere that completely shook up the way I viewed the world, my life, and myself. I went on this adventure in the winter of 2000, and can still feel how life changing it was for me. I hope you enjoyed the piece — thanks for reading!  

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France Adopts Its Very First Tourism Policy

by Lindsay Shapka in ,


It is no secret that I am head-over-heels for Paris. It is one of my favourite places in the world, and not just for the art, history, pastries (don't even get me STARTED on the croissants), but also for the fact that it is unapologetically, well, French...

Popular tourist spots are closed on Sundays, there are no easy-to-spot information booths, pickpockets abound during the high season, locals look disgusted if they so much as spot a map, and everyone looks like the just stepped off the next season's runway show — I LOVE IT!

The tourist filled Basilica of the Sacre Ceour in Paris, France

But, I have to admit; France does tend to have a reputation (especially in the English-speaking world) for being full of rude people, unhelpful shopkeepers, and a less-than-welcoming approach to tourists. (But come on, the waiter who snubs you because your French is less then perfect can easily be brought back on your side with a friendly smile!) 

Despite the negative reputation, the cities, countryside, and beaches of France are always packed — it is one of the most visited countries in the world.

Shockingly however (especially to those of us in the tourism industry), France has NEVER HAD AN OFFICIAL TOURISM POLICY... EVER... !?

This month, it seems that the French government has finally decided that it might be worth capitalizing on these visitors and using tourism as a way to boost their economy — the word 'Duh' comes to mind. 

Why has this never happened before you ask?

According to Didier Arino, a director of the organization pushing for this investment in tourism, "The problem is that in France we don't value jobs in tourism. We conflate services with servitude."

(source)

The French economy, like most of the member countries of the European Union, was hit really hard a few years ago and is still recovering, and this explains why the government is looking for new ways to supply people with jobs and boost spending by visitors. 

So, how are they planning on becoming more tourist friendly? 

The plan is to promote destinations outside of Paris to encourage longer stays in the country, and to combat their unwelcoming reputation a guide titled Do You Speak Touriste? has been created for those who work in the hospitality industry to familiarize them with the language, and cultural quirks of their visitors. They are also looking at trying to keep shops, tourist spots and restaurants open at more regular hours. 

What do you think? Have you had a negative experience in France or have you fallen in love with all its eccentricities like I have? If you had a negative experience, will this new policy make you willing to try travelling to the country again?   

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Reads For The Road: Crossing The Heart of Africa by Julian Smith

by Lindsay Shapka in , , ,


In 1898, British explorer Ewart Grogan was in love. The problem? He was in love with an aristocrat's daughter who didn't think that he was good enough for her. Before he could marry, Grogan had to prove his worth, and so set out on an epic quest to be the very first (English) man to cross the length of Africa from Cape Town to Cairo.

No, this is not the scene from a movie, or from an epic romance novel. This is a real life (rarely told) story that author Julian Smith discovered by chance, and that inspired him to embark on his own adventure — in Grogan's footsteps. Nearly a century after the original adventurer set out to conquer Africa, Smith found himself madly in love, yet terrified by the prospect of marriage (aren't we all).  

Traveling can be the ultimate alone time, which is probably why I ended up doing it for a living. Away from home and surrounded by strangers, you can be anyone or no one, anonymous or camouflaged.
— Julian Smith from Crossing The Heart of Africa

Deciding drastic measures were needed in order for him to face his marriage fears, he decided to trace the 4,500-mile journey that Grogan took. A strange choice right before a wedding, but one that he committed to regardless.   

In the spellbinding Crossing The Heart of Africa, Smith weaves the most fascinating elements of Grogan's original adventure into his own honest, introspective journey through one of the toughest continents in the world. It is a FANTASTIC read. 




Travel Tips: Don't Book Ahead! You Might Miss The Experience Of A Lifetime

by Lindsay Shapka in , , ,


My friends and I had spent five action-packed days in Rome and we had just arrived back at our hostel ready to pack up to head to Venice the next day. We hadn't pre-booked anything, but we knew that we were ready for a change of scenery. 

We paused at the front desk on our way in, to let them know that we would be leaving in the morning (but really to flirt with the guy working the front counter) and noticed a poster on the wall behind the desk with "FREE CONCERT" printed on it in big, bold, black letters. 

Curious, we asked for details, but other than being nice to look at, cute-front-desk-guy was kind of useless. He couldn't tell us why the concert was happening, when it started, or how long it would be. All he knew was that it was at the Circus Maximus (an outdoor, ancient Roman chariot racing stadium located near the ancient Roman forum) and that there would be A LOT of famous musicians and movie stars present. 

Deciding that one more day in Rome wouldn't hurt, we decided to stick around to check out the concert. 

We woke up early the next morning, and headed to the venue around ten, figuring the concert would probably start in the early afternoon.

It was May, a beautiful humid day, and the 20 minute walk took us through the historic city centre, and past the always stunning Colosseum.  

When we arrived, the massive green space was completely deserted except for a stage at one end and a few tech guys wandering around. Apparently we were REALLY early. 

Here's the thing about being REALLY early to a free, outdoor concert though... you end up at the very front, at the very centre of the stage. 

As close as you could get to the stage without being press or a producer  

Oh, and it turned out that half the city knew what time the concert started, cause after we held our spots at the front of the stage for a few hours, hundreds of thousands of people joined us!  

The crowd that gathered behind us — it turned out that more than 10,000 people were there.  

The crowd that gathered behind us — it turned out that more than 10,000 people were there.  

It turned out that the concert was called We Are The Future, and was a fundraiser for children who lived in high-risk areas around the world. It was raising money to provide schools, safe places to live, water and access to healthcare.

How did I find this out standing in this massive crowd trapped at the front of the stage?

Quincy Jones told me.

Did I mention that it was a concert put on by him?! 

THE Quincy Jones... in the flesh! 

Oh, and those famous people that we were promised would appear?

Take a look:  

Oh hey Oprah and Josh Groban...

The one and only Andrea Bocelli is still, to this day, one of the most amazing live performers I have ever heard 

Oh hello Miss Williams...  

Naomi Campbell strutted onto the stage

I pretty much hyperventilated when Angelina Jolie walked out on stage... I could have touched her! (But I didn't because that would be creepy)

For thirteen hours (yes, I was exhausted, starving and in pain by the end of the concert, but it was SO worth it), we watched and performances by Carlos Santana, STOMP, Alicia Keys and more!

It was an amazing experience that I will NEVER forget, but one that I would not have taken advantage of if we had pre-booked a hotel or train to Venice ahead of time.

So, the moral of this VERY long story is this:
Book what you need to in order to feel comfortable in your travels, but leave yourself room for spontaneity — you never know when a free concert full of superstars will come your way!

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Travel Tales: Surviving The Songkran Water Festival in Thailand

by Lindsay Shapka in , ,


I stepped gingerly out of the cab, swinging my heavy pack onto my back, trying to get my bearings amongst the chaos of the Thai New Year celebrations.

The driver had dropped me only about four blocks away from my hotel — it was as close as he could get — but there were so many people on the street celebrating Songkran that I was feeling a bit turned around.  

Already sweating in the 40+ mid-day Thailand sun (not that it mattered, I was about to be soaking wet) I set off down a side street lined with food carts, and stalls selling small waterproof bags and water guns... and water...

While looking up at the flags strung across the street above me, I felt a cold stream of water run down my neck, then another hit me straight in the belly button, and yet another smack dab in the middle of my forehead... It had begun... 

What's a bigger target than a foreigner at a country's largest festival that involves throwing water at each other?

A foreigner with a ackpack on her back. (Luckily I had planned ahead and packed ALL of my stuff in plastic bags... one point for me!)

​Everything in my bags was packed away in plastic — I had a feeling I would be a target... I was correct...

I was right in the middle of a country-wide water fight that ushers in the traditional Thai New Year (April 13, 14 and 15). It is traditionally a time of renewal, cleansing AND wandering the streets with buckets of water to soak people with.

The country's most famous festival did not start out as a full-on no-holds-barred water fight. Not too long ago it was celebrated with quiet temple visits, 'new year's resolutions' and house cleaning. The temple's primary Buddha was ceremoniously bathed by monks and followers splashing water on it, water was splashed on the hands of elders, and was playfully splashed (not thrown) at friends as a way to with them luck.

Oh, how things have changed...

(As an added bonus, the festival falls on the HOTTEST time of the year in Thailand and the cold, cleansing water is actually a welcome escape from the heat.)

Decorations strung up at the Wat Pho temple in Bangkok, Thailand

Pieces of gold leaf are placed on stone Buddhas at Wat Pho in Bangkok, Thailand

Pieces of gold leaf are placed on stone Buddhas at Wat Pho in Bangkok, Thailand

During Songkran it is next to impossible to step into the streets of Bangkok and stay dry (especially if you are staying in the Th Khao San area, which I was). The streets were not only full of people (mostly Thais) throwing water, but also with live music, DJs, and an indescribable atmosphere. 

It was an incredible experience, but after being soaking wet for 2 days straight I was ready to dry off!

Luck is said to be measured by how doused you are — it is safe to say that I am the luckiest girl in the world (even a monk threw water at me at the temple!).

Luck is measured by how soaked you are — I'm feeling like this is going to be a great year!




8 Things You Must See and Do in Florence

by Lindsay Shapka in , , ,


Winding cobblestone streets lined with tall, stone buildings filled with shops, cafes and restaurants. Churches covered in the art works of Italian masters. Fashion trends that won't make it to North America for years. Museums overflowing with paintings, sculpture and sketches. Walking in the footsteps of Michelangelo, Leonardo, Donatello and Raphael (no, not the Ninja Turtles)... what isn't there to see and do in the glorious city of Florence! 

Here is your guide to the top spots to see and the best things to do when visiting Florence!

​The Duomo (front facade recently cleaned) 

1. The Duomo

Though you may have spotted the terracotta coloured tiles of Brunelleschi's massive dome long before you come upon the cathedral, the first time that you turn the corner and find yourself in front of the pink and green marble facade, you are sure to have the wind knocked out of you.

The church is gigantic, towering above all the buildings surrounding it, and breathtakingly beautiful.

The best time to visit is in the off-season, when the interior is open to all, nothing is closed off to tourists and the echoing halls are quiet, deserted, and lit by flickering candlelight. 

2. The Baptistery and The Gates of Paradise

Across from the Duomo sits the octagonal shaped baptistery that was built on the site of an ancient Roman temple as early as the 5th century. Dante was among the celebrated figures that have been baptized in this marble structure that is famous for its gilded bronze doors, the most famous being Ghiberti's Gates of Paradise (pictured below) — 10 intricate panels depicting stories from the old testament. The one's hanging are replicas but you can check out the originals at the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo.

The Gates of Paradise (Porta del Paradiso)      Lorenzo Ghiberti

3. Piazza della Signoria

This expansive piazza is the political hub of the city and is surrounded by some beautiful historic buildings including the Palazzo Vecchio which is the seat of the Florentine government and full of murals by iconic artists.

The Piazza also contains a sculpture gallery (a great spot to people watch from on a warm evening) and an exact replica of the famous David by Michelangelo

4. Galleries

The Uffizi Gallery, built in the 16th century by the artist and art historian Vasari, is the home of the private art collection of the Medici family — essentially the 'royal family' of Florence at the height of the Renaissance and passionate art patrons. Works by masters like Michelangelo, Leonardo, Donatello, and Raphael can be found here as well as stunning paintings by Botticelli (my personal favourites).

Another 'can't-miss' is the Galleria dell’Accademia, which is the home of the original David and Michelangelo's unfinished Slaves that give a unique insight into the artist's process.

​Ponte Vecchio

5. Ponte Vecchio

The only bridge that survived the Nazi explosives in 1944 (pictured above), this unique 14th century structure is the home of the city's most beautiful jewellery shops.

Unless you are travelling with a pocketful for cash, don't expect to do more then window shop on this pricy strip, but something as unique as a bridge covered in houses is definitely worth the visit.

6. Piazzale Michelangelo

It's a bit of a trek, but the views from this plaza (pictures below), across the river from the centre of the city, are worth every drip of sweat.

On a clear day, you can see straight to the green Tuscan hills beyond the city. 

7. Cafes, Restaurants, and Wine

There are some fantastic cafes, their tables spilling out into the street, between the Duomo and the Piazza della Signoria, as well as some great spots for gelato.

Florence is incredibly close to the Chianti region which means some delicious wine, readily available at extremely low prices, and there are no rules about drinking in the streets so grab a bottle from a local grocery store and head to the Piazzale Michelangelo to enjoy a sunset after a long day of sightseeing!

8. Shop, shop, and shop some more

Florence contains everything from department stores to street markets and everything in between.

Most boutiques, jewellery shops and designer stores are located between the cathedral and the Arno river, while the best spot to find leather, souvenirs, hand-bound books, clothing, and jewellery at low prices is at the Piazza del Mercato Centrale (an open-air market located near the train station). 




Must-Visit Destination: Exploring The City of Taormina, Italy

by Lindsay Shapka in , ,


THE STATS:

Location — Taormina is a small picturesque town located on the east coast of the island of Sicily, Italy. It perches high on the cliffs above the Ionian Sea, which is luxuriously warm and has an extremely high salt content (better for floating!). 

Population — Approximately 11,000 permanent residents call this historical village home. 

Claim To Fame — Considered to be the most beautiful town in Sicily, Taormina has been a hub of art and trade back to the time when Italy was ruled by the Greeks (around the 5th century BC). Now frequented by the European jet-set, it is the type of Italian town you see in the movies, and is packed with restaurants, cafes, parks, and boutiques. One of the most stunning sights is the Teatro Greco, an ancient Roman amphitheatre that overlooks the sea and — on a clear day — gives you a view of Mt Etna. Oh, and did I mention the AMAZING beaches! 

TaorminaItaly.JPG

Orientation — The town centre is located on the top of a hill (you must take a bus or a looonnnggg walk to get up to it). The main road, Corso Umberto I, runs through the whole town. 

Getting Around — Walk, walk, and walk! This is a tiny little town so the easiest way to get around, and take in the gorgeous views, is to use your own two feet. In order to get down to the beach you will need to take a cable car OR go on a nice long steep hike (trust me, take the cable car).

Getting There and Away — If you are coming from the mainland, the easiest thing to do is to take the train. How do you get to an island on a train you ask? On a boat of course! The Italians have ferry boats that line up with the tracks and allow the trains to drive right on, meeting up with the tracks again on the island. You will need to catch an Interbus from the train station into town. If travelling around the island the best way to go is by bus.

Where To Stay — Because Taormina tends to attract a wealthier crowd, there are many expensive hotels, pensiones, villas, and rooms for rent. But, the budget conscious need not dismay, there are also a few cheap hostels and even a campground for you! Try and call ahead if you are travelling in the high season however, as you can imagine, these less-expensive options fill up fast! 

What To Do — Relax at a cafe, ride the cable car down to the beach, suntan, take in the majestic view of Mt Etna at the Teatro Greco, hike up the cacti speckled cliffs overlooking the sea, wander through the historic city centre as the sun sets, indulge in a delicious meal  at a local restaurant... REPEAT!  

How I Found It — While travelling through Italy, my travel buddies and I ended up in Taormina largely because it was the lest expensive ticket to buy at the train station. Our ultimate goal was getting to Mt Etna (a town over), but we decided to stop here in order to save some money. 

Intending to only stay for one night, we ended up adding a few more because of the chilled out atmosphere, a great hostel, and the gorgeous beach!

The Teatro Greco was once solely used for gladiator combat and was where Woody Allen filmed the Greek chorus scene for his film Mighty Aphrodite.